Abbaye

I had not ventured into Northern Liberties in more than a year when I visited Abbaye, at the corner of Third and Fairmount. The word is French for "abbey," and the pub/restaurant aptly specializes in Belgian beers and offers a full menu.

A number of people were enjoying their meals outside on the balmy evening I showed up with my husband and mother, but we opted to dine inside. The bar is big and friendly and features a dartboard. We were shown to a large round table right beneath the looming blackboard that listed the bill of fare.

Beer reigns here, and I was unfamiliar with a number of the brews served up at Abbaye. Our waiter recommended the Shy Pilsner ($3), a rich golden brew that was marvelously crisp.

Specials with prices are listed on the menu. Abbaye offers many vegan and vegetarian dishes, which is an accommodating practice.

Among the specials of the evening was tomato mozzarella salad ($7), fairly common in restaurants this time of year. But the huge ripe, juicy tomatoes used in the salad were the finest I’d sampled all summer. The white oval platter contained some eight slices, complemented by fresh, top-quality mozzarella, all topped with chopped fresh basil and perfectly dressed in a light vinaigrette. The salad was so large, half of it was packed to go.

Another special salad was the grilled calamari with arugula, tomatoes, Kalamata olives and imported-from-Greece feta cheese ($8). Like the tomato and mozzarella salad, this one could have fed a small army. Each ingredient was top-quality, from the spicy baby arugula leaves to the red ripe tomato wedges. The combination of colors, textures and flavors — the saltiness of the feta and olives and the smokiness of the grilled squid rings — was glorious.

Edward opted for the Abbaye salad ($7), another triumphant combo. He received a huge mound of perfectly fresh baby greens tossed with colorful julienned carrots, crispy walnuts, slightly salty blue cheese and good-sized strips of applewood-smoked bacon, crisp and grease-free.

Our next courses were an interesting mix. Mom went for the grilled cheese served on challah with tomato ($7), Edward ordered the fried catfish dinner ($12) and I had a hankering for the gumbo ($8).

My mother really enjoyed her sandwich. Challah, the rich egg bread served on the Jewish Sabbath and all holidays, is wonderful as French toast, but I never thought to make grilled cheese with it. The bread grilled up beautifully and buttery and the cheese was perfectly melted. For $1 extra, you can have applewood-smoked bacon as well as the tomato in the sandwich. Her platter arrived with a large mound of perfectly prepared Belgian fries — the shoestring variety that Mom and I both favor.

Edward liked his catfish platter, which included a ramekin of red pepper cream sauce that was a good complement. The mild, white-fleshed fish was simply dipped into a cornmeal batter and fried to a golden brown. Zucchini straws were the vegetable of the day, and anyone who reads this column knows how my husband feels about the "dreaded zucchini." He asked our waiter if he could have a replacement veggie, and we all had a good chuckle when we saw his plate: It contained a mound of fries and a good-sized serving of oven-roasted potatoes. Atkins be damned, Edward enjoyed potatoes two ways.

I love gumbo and make it at home. Abbaye’s version is prepared with Andouille sausage, the famous New Orleans staple; shrimp, minced clams, celery, onion and peppers, which were sautéed and finished in a chicken-clam stock, served over the requisite steamed white rice. Warning: This gumbo is not for the faint of stomach. It was so hot and peppery, I could not eat it. Gumbo should have a bit of kick from the spicy Andouille, but everyone’s palate is different, and mine couldn’t handle this fiery version.

Our waiter was so nice and accommodating. He brought me the menu and I selected the pulled pork sandwich with sharp provolone ($8), and was most content with my new choice. The pork was fork-tender, shredded and mixed with a light barbecue sauce. It was piled onto a piece of Sarcone’s bread and topped with tangy sharp provolone. I also received a mound of crisp shoestring fries.

Service was the best you’ll find anywhere. As we had dinner, we noticed a number of people filling up the bar and dining room. Every outside table was taken. Several regulars were enjoying a friendly game of darts.

Two-and-a-half tips of the toque to Abbaye.

Abbaye
Third Street and Fairmount Avenue
215-627-6711
Credit cards accepted
Wheelchair-accessible
New American pub fare