Farmicia

Wendy Born and James Barrett founded Metropolitan Bakery 11 years ago on South 19th Street, just steps from Rittenhouse Square. Today there are a number of locations, and the staff of bakers also produces pastries and other sweets.

On Sept. 23, Born, Barrett and chef Kevin Klause — who used to be Kevin Von Klause but dropped the "Von" — joined forces and opened Farmicia in the space that formerly housed Novelty on South Third Street. (Bruce Cooper, who also owns Jake’s in Manayunk, had difficulty running two restaurants.) The trio met while working with Judy Wicks at University City’s famed White Dog Café, where Born was a partner.

They chose the name "Farmicia," which means "pharmacy" in Italian, for their new venture — something to do with the fact that they purchase all foodstuffs from local organic farms. The menu reflects the theme with phrases like "dispense as written refill _____ times" and courses being called "doses."

The interior has not changed much, but tables are now covered with pretty grass mats. During my recent visit, fresh flowers were on all the tables and both dining rooms were decorated with pumpkins and squash, adding a festive autumn air. The lighting was very dim when we were shown to our table. I asked our waiter if he could up the lights a bit, because neither my husband nor I could read the menu. (It didn’t help that the menu print is very light and the typeface thin.)

From the wine list we selected a Côtes du Rhône ($28). Our waiter brought us oversized juice glasses to serve as wineglasses, just like the ones used in informal restaurants in France and Italy.

The bread service gets three toques and then some. You get to select every type of bread from a beautiful European basket. I loved the giant sesame-seed flatbread, the rosemary olive rolls, the homemade crunchy breadsticks and the sourdough rolls. Atkins be damned when you dine at Farmicia. A large ramekin of softened sweet butter arrived with the bread.

Edward began dinner with a cup of vegetarian minestrone ($5.50). Although it was hot and tasty, it should have been heartier for this time of year. We both thought the portion was too small. (Soup, by the way, is called "liquid food" from the "Light Dose" menu.)

From the "Light Doses" I selected beet and fennel salad ($7.50), which is described vaguely on the menu as "citrus, greens, blue cheese." Turns out the citrus was in the dressing. Nonetheless, the salad was delicious, prepared with top-quality ingredients. A small mound of micro greens, studded with tangy blue cheese, was the perfect tasty foil for the beets and fennel. But this dish, too, should have been more generous.

From the "Medium Dose" list, Edward and I shared the calamari — "roasted, stuffed with cauliflower, melted radicchio, gremolata" ($10). I thought 10 bucks was too much to pay for one 5-inch squid body stuffed with cauliflower puree, which imparted a mild flavor. It was difficult to detect any gremolata, which is grated lemon rind often used to finish osso bucco. I did like the smoky flavor, and the squid was chewy.

All entrées are under $20, which is a good sign. Wild Alaskan salmon ($18.50) consisted of a 4-ounce filet of the marvelously flavored and textured fish. It was served with braised cabbage and lentils, which were deliciously warming and perfectly cooked. The dish was finished in crème fraiche studded with fresh herbs.

Edward’s leg of lamb ($18) was a bit overcooked. It was grilled with red wine, a flavor we both enjoyed. His platter came with aromatic braised fennel, gnocchi filled with creamy butternut squash and a scattering of olives. The fennel was a fine pair with the lamb, and the gnocchi, light and pillowy, were homemade.

We had to try dessert because Barrett is so good at baking. We shared a warm apple tart ($6), much like the tart tatin served in France. It came with a small scoop of rich vanilla ice cream.

Our waiter, Rio, brought us two cups of perfectly brewed cappuccino because he wanted us to try it with our sweet.

The portions at Farmicia are just right for someone with a lighter appetite. The menu is filled with dishes and all vegetables are customized to successfully play off the beef, fish, lamb, etc. Five "TV Dinners" also are on the bill of fare; these are totally vegetarian or vegan.

Born, Barrett and Klause have supported local farms for years. They believe in creating dishes with the finest ingredients they can find. Many chefs fail when it comes to putting together customized plates, but Klause never failed when he orchestrated the kitchen at the White Dog — and things are looking good for the new venue.

Two-and-a-half tips of the toque to Farmicia.

Farmicia
15 S. Third St.
215-627-6274
Wheelchair-accessible
Credit cards accepted
Open for lunch, weekend brunch and dinner daily