Ristorante Terra Nostra

Frank DeCotiis, chef/owner of La Stanza and the former Foggia, worked with his brother, Marco, at the newly expanded restaurant at 20th and Oregon. Marco DeCotiis recently opened Ristorante Terra Nostra, at Second and Bainbridge, where the family’s high standard for cucina remains generally intact.

This corner location has been home to numerous restaurants, most recently Las Cazuelas, the marvelous Mexican eatery whose original location is at Fifth and Girard. The Bainbridge property is bilevel; the more formal dining room is downstairs and the casual bar upstairs.

Every bar seat was taken during a recent visit, so my husband and I joined the camaraderie at a high-top table. Mrs. DeCotiis and her sister Nicole took good care of us. Nicole gave us menus, white linen napkins and flatware. And when we ordered a bottle of Bolla Merlot ($21) that was out of stock, they gave us a $28 bottle of Hahn Merlot for the Bolla price.

Three tips of the toque straightaway. This is exactly the type of thoughtfulness the hospitality industry should practice, and it has occurred only once before in my dining experience.

Nicole brought us a loaf of Sarcone’s sesame bread and several slices of dense Tuscan bread. We dipped our bread into a dish of extra-virgin olive oil studded with Gaeta olives and fat cloves of garlic.

The antipasto ($9.95) was outstanding: a cool white plate, large enough for two, with marinated roasted eggplant, artichoke hearts, little balls of fresh mozzarella, sweet roasted red pepper strips, thinly sliced soppressata and prosciutto di Parma, aged sharp provolone and a scattering of Gaeta olives, all drizzled with Tuscan olive oil.

The fried calamari ($7.95) featured a delicious surprise — a julienne of vegetables fried in tempura batter. The rings of baby calamari had been dusted in seasoned flour and fried to a crispy golden-brown. A saffron aioli dipping sauce enhanced both the sweet, tender squid and the vegetables — an inspired duo of frying batters.

A dozen pasta dishes were on offer, as well as the risotto of the day. I selected the wild mushroom ravioli ($13.95) and Edward ordered orecchiette ("little ears") with broccoli rabe and sausage ($12.95). However, the restaurant was out of rabe and asked if we’d mind spinach as a substitute; we didn’t, as we love spinach.

I received at least six homemade plump ravioli filled with minced wild mushrooms. The light-as-a-feather pillows were topped with a truffle brown butter sauce and sliced white button and shiitake mushrooms. It was difficult to detect the heady taste or aroma of the truffle because the ravioli were oversauced, but the dish was good overall.

Orecchiette lend themselves well to all sorts of chunky ingredients because of the round indentations in the pasta. Edward and I thought they were a little too al dente, but this is a matter of personal taste. The sliced Italian sausage was nicely spiced, neither sweet nor hot. The baby spinach leaves were fresh and cooked just right. A light sauce of roasted garlic and olive oil topped this entrée — which was so large, half of it went home with me.

After dinner, as we were finishing our wine, Marco DeCotiis made his way through the restaurant, stopping to chat with his patrons. He is a congenial gentleman who has a way with words. He told us that his family comes from Foggia (hence the name of the brothers’ first restaurant), just south of Naples. His parents and their eight children settled in Montreal after they left Italy, so DeCotiis speaks English, Italian and French.

Ristorante Terra Nostra is a fine addition to Queen Village. It is just what a neighborhood restaurant should be: good food and wine at moderate prices, and a staff that truly enjoys its customers.

Two-and-a-half tips of the toque to Ristorante Terra Nostra.

Ristorante Terra Nostra
Second and Bainbridge streets
215-238-9828
Credit cards accepted
Steps leading down to dining room and up to bar