Byblos

Sawan’s Mediterranean Bistro on busy South 18th Street was totally gutted and recently reopened with a new name.

Michael and Dia Sawan now run a place called Byblos, with a beautiful interior and delicious, moderately priced Mediterranean fare.

First, a bit of history as to why the large, three-generation Sawan family, longtime South Philly residents who also own Cedar’s and Fez in Queen Village, selected such an unusual name.

Byblos was a city in ancient Phoenicia where the first linear alphabet was created. It dates back more than 7,000 years and could be the oldest continuously inhabited city in the world. Byblos is located in modern-day Lebanon, the Sawan family’s home country.

As you enter Philly’s version of Byblos, you’ll see a long wall covered in small Italian tile. Moorish minaret-shaped cutouts hold tall red lit candles. The highly polished bar is made from black onyx, the dark wood backdrop replaced with light wood. Red lights peek out from circles cut into the light wood ceiling. Modern-shaped wing-back chairs covered in creamy damask dot the dining rooms. Tile-covered pillars separate the bar area from the dining room. The wine rack, modern and whimsical, is made from highly polished stainless steel and includes back-lit shelves for glassware and napkins.

The menu is eastern Mediterranean. We sipped our wine and tucked into a basket of warm, slightly crisp-around-the-edges pita and decided on our mezze, or starters. We sampled baba ghanouj ($5), tzatziki ($5), Israeli salad ($6), grape leaves ($5) and kibbi ($7) – all freshly made and, together, a meal unto themselves.

The family matriarch’s recipes dictate many dishes. The baba ghanouj is made from roasted eggplants, which develop a marvelous smoky flavor when they’re baked. A bit of tahini was added to the eggplant once the pulp was scooped out and chopped. Tzatziki was a healthy blend of imported yogurt, a touch of garlic, spices and olive oil. Few places offer Israeli salad, which was made with chopped tomatoes, cucumbers and green peppers dressed in olive oil and lemon juice. It was cool and refreshing.

I never sampled Mrs. Sawan’s grape leaves until Edward and I came to Byblos. They were a delicious surprise, stuffed with seasoned rice, covered in a light lemon sauce, baked and served warm.

Care also was taken with the kibbi – three good-sized bullet-shaped treats made with ground beef, a hint of bulgar wheat or tabouli, pine nuts and aromatic cinnamon, then coated in bulgar and fried until golden. They were uncommonly good and free of grease.

The grilled lamb shish kabobs ($12) and grilled chicken shish kabobs ($11) were perfectly cooked indoors and comprised of three skewers each of boneless meat, onions, green peppers and sweet grape tomatoes. The ingredients were brushed with olive oil and a hint of lemon juice before grilling. These generously portioned dinners were served on saffron rice.

Desserts also were well prepared. We enjoyed hot chocolate run ($5), tiramisu ($5) and classic baklava ($4.50).

For about a decade, local chefs have been making individual hot chocolate lava cakes. Perhaps the Sawans were having fun by naming this dessert "hot chocolate run," but it was properly made and included a generous scoop of vanilla ice cream. The tiramisu came in a tall wineglass and was more like a pudding than the classic cake. Nonetheless, it was light with mascarpone and cocoa powder. The baklava was a masterpiece: not too sweet, not too sticky. The phylo sheets were light and flaky, packed with chopped nuts and a touch of honey.

Edward sipped Lebanese coffee as the restaurant filled with patrons. And no wonder they were pouring in: The location has a much-needed facelift, the prices are moderate and the atmosphere is romantic.

Three tips of the toque to Byblos.

Byblos
116 S. 18th St.
215-568-3050
Credit cards accepted
Wheelchair-accessible
Open for lunch and dinner